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Inspection standards and inspection methods of knitted fabrics in garment factories

Nov 15, 2017

一. purpose

Through the introduction of the basic features of knitting fabric and test/inspection methods, let garment factory master the acceptance standard and use method of knitting fabric, accurately grasp the cutting consumption, reasonable arrangement of the production process.


二.Scope of application and description

The quality control of knitting fabric including: confirm the fabric appearance style, cloth defect form, physical and chemical index test and so on dozens of quality index, involved in the international and domestic traffic quantitative testing standard, which has two kinds of ten "and four".But these pass quantitative standard only apply to professional inspection orgnaization and fabrics export container acceptance, to garment factory not have actual maneuverability.The acceptance standards and methods introduced below are the standard and method summarization of the personnel of the garment factory for many years according to the actual operation experience. The operation is simple and accurate and practical.


三. Inspection standards and methods of inspection: 

The inspection range of knitted fabrics includes: appearance style, color, gram weight, width, cloth weight and fabric length, fabric defect, color fastness, shrinkage stability, fabric odor, etc. There are two core indicators for manufacturing enterprises that only do garment processing: one is to control the quality of the cloth to meet the customer's requirements and avoid the repair or return of clothing due to the defect of the fabric.Second, the clothing single consumption control accurate, avoid the single consumption of excessive standard caused clothing short shipment.


1.The appearance style:

Check the fabric used in the sample garment and make a judgment of the physical comparison.Emphasize that the front and back of the fabric should be clear and clearly marked before cropping.


2.color: 

Check the fabric color is correct after the material arrived at the factory.The material of different cylinder number should be sampled and compared to see whether the color error of the different cylinder number is within the range of the cylinder range allowed by the customer.


3.weight: 

Because of its good elasticity it is difficult to accurately measure its length. In actual production, it is used to control the actual length of the fabric by strictly controlling the square meter of the fabric.Grams can be easily detected by a gram - meter.On this note that regular fabrics production enterprise usually test gram is moisture regain small fabric gram weight under dry state, fabrics of clothing factory testing is often full moisture in the air after gram, the gap will be between 5-10 grams, the differences are often misunderstandings.The gram weight tested by the professional testing institution is the gram weight of the public return rate.


4.width:

 Width including the width and width of the edge to the edge,  It can be cut across two kinds.Generally, the width of the hair is less than 4-5cm.In this regard, it is important to check whether the fabric has a rolling edge phenomenon, whether it has the same width or unstable or different fabric width and width. 


5.yard weight and length: 

When the garment factory receives the large goods, it will review the weight of the fabric according to the code sheet, which is very simple and rarely disputes.Key is long, this is knitting fabric in the process of production the most prone to disagreement, a direct result of clothing consumption appeared deviation, the fabric production and garment processing enterprises, however, often it is difficult to judge it.Here is the cloth length acceptance of knitted fabric to check key point to explain.

There are two methods for fabric length acceptance: 

Actual measurement: Smooth the fabric on the cutting platform, measure the length of the material in meters, and check whether the material is short.It is important to note that the tightness of the paving will be smoothed according to the actual cut.When the paving is too tight, the fabric length will come out, which will lead to the actual cutting.The production company will also raise objections when the paving is too loose.Description: knitting fabric cannot be measured with ordinary inspecting machine cloth, it is difficult to measure accurately because of the knitting fabric elasticity is too big, the second is if inspecting machine tension is too big, too fast will directly destroy the morphological stability of the knitted fabric.

Weight conversion method: Make sure that the fabric weight is correct before opening the package, then open the fabric packaging and quickly sample the weight of the gram from the area of the cloth about 3 meters above the head of the cloth.


6. Inspection and treatment of fabric defects:

Cloth defect is usually divided into Yarn defect, Defect of weaving, Dyeing and finishing defects and Damage in transit.For garment factories, the reasons for the defect are not considered.In the actual acceptance of the cloth, the defect can be divided into two categories by its own judgment or by the manufacturer of the fabric. One kind is to repair defects (such as different color fiber, slight color difference, slub yarn), repair the fabric or garment, production when the normal cutting sewing, normal inform related personnel arrangement, cost statistics, well after finishing second at the same time acceptance. The other kind is the unretainable defect point (such as drawing silk, broken hole, severe color difference, serious smudge, serious weft, etc.), this kind of defect is a hard defect, severe bad can only be abandoned.At the time of acceptance, attention is paid to the existence of defects and their individual phenomena.Notice the fabric production enterprises to the on-site confirmation in the first time, and the parties agree to deal with the issue.It can not consider the defect of its individual existence, so as to save the defective products directly, as the physical evidence of the bad loss. 

(explain: According to international or domestic standards, fabric is allowed to exist, whether it is a ten-cent system or a four-point system, and its quantitative criteria are only control of the number of defects.In actual operation, if the fabric of grade A is too evenly distributed, the single-consumption effect on the garment factory will exceed the standard.In order to control the cost of a single product, the default rules in the industry are as follows:  The garment factory is normally cut and used, and the fabric of the defects is kept. The loss of 2% of the contract quantity of a single variety of 1000-5000 meters is reasonable wear and tear, and the loss of less than 1% of the 5,000 meters is reasonable wear and tear.The fabric manufacturers shall bear all the losses beyond the reasonable wastage range.Clothing factory can accurately control and calculate the clothing cost through the actual wear and tear of fabric. 


7.Color fastness: 

The color fastness needs professional testing equipment to detect, the qualified production enterprises can pass the standard test method to make the judgment.The usual beakers and eyeball are simply added.


8. Shrinkage stability: 

The shrinkage stability includes the dimension stability of the fabric after the launching of the fabric, the dimension stability after the steam ironing of the fabric and the dimensional stability after the fabric is bonded to the fabric.According to customer testing standard and garment washing requirement, the above shrinkage stability is tested.Usually, the shrinkage rate of the knitted fabric is about 5%, and the steam ironing shrinkage is 3% less than 3%.If the customer has higher requirements, the clothing salesman will inform the fabric manufacturer in advance to improve the production process to improve the dimensional stability of the fabric.The garment factory usually has a long and laborious process of cutting and reproducing. The cost is too high and the cost is too high to avoid.Knitting fabric have higher request for fusible interlining, besides considering adhesion fastness, lining cloth of heat shrinkage rate as far as possible, otherwise easy as lining cloth heat shrinkage rate is too high lead to knitting fabric shrinkage is too big.


9. Fabrics of peculiar smell:

In the process of knitting fabric, a large number of dye and auxiliaries are used in the production process. If the dye is not qualified or the production process is improper, the fabric odor will cause the customer to complain.The garment factory should inform the responsible person in time after discoveing the smell of the fabric.